How To

How To Choose
the Right Tree

Kinds of Trees
Trees Not Recommended for Yards
Selection Checklist
Purchasing

Kinds of Trees

• Recommended trees for the Kansas City metro region
• Recommended trees for Northeast Kansas – From the Kansas Forest Service
• What Trees Will Grow Around My Home? - The National Arbor Day Foundation's hardiness zone search will help you find the trees most suited to grow in the area in which you live.
• Missouri Urban Tree Book - Information, charts, and pictures about Missouri trees and how to select the one right for your landscape, from the Missouri Department of Conservation.
• What Tree is That? - Do you ever wonder what kinds of trees are growing near your house? Through a series of questions and pictures, this interactive guide from The National Arbor Day Foundation will help you identify almost any tree!
• Right Trees in the Right is a publication provided by KCP&L; it is a guide to appropriate tree selection and planting.

Trees Not Recommended for Yards

These trees are known to have insect/disease problems in the Kansas City region, are susceptible to ice damage and/or are messy:

• American Elm
• Ash
• Austrian Pine
• Black Locust
• Boxelder
• Bradford Pear
• Cottonwood
• European White Birch
• Hackberry
• Lombardy Poplar
• Mimosa
• Mulberry
• Pin Oak
• River Birch
• Scotch Pine
• Siberian Elm
• Silver (soft) Maple
• Silver Poplar
• Tree of Heaven
• Willow

There are other trees besides those listed here that may not be suitable for your situation due other considerations, such as those with large seeds (sweetgum, walnut). Be sure to get complete information about any tree you plan to plant.

Selection Checklist

Below is a checklist to help you find the right tree to plant around your home. Print off this page, fill it out and then show it to your local nursery or garden center professional and request a choice of trees appropriate for your site. Ask if the nursery or garden center guarantees its plant material. Note responses in given spaces.
Site Selection
Where will you plant your tree?

• public land
• park
• private land
• parking lot
• lawn
• landfill
• rooftop
• municipal building
• by a patio
• golf course
• garden
• school/ playground
• along streets

Describe the site:

• underground utilities
• sunny
• near heavy traffic
• shady
• overhead utility wires
• dry
• near winter salted roads
• wet
• near walkway, driveway, or sidewalk

Check soil conditions:

• severely disturbed/building rubble
• shallow soil to bedrock
• clay
• rocky
• sandy
• silt/loam

Estimate:
The space between curb and sidewalk , lot size and fitting the tree to the site.

• A tree's mature size and shape must be of the proper scale to fit the site and surrounding buildings.
• Trees have roots. Roots spread beyond the branch area of the tree. Most roots are found in the top 18" of soil; most absorbing roots are found in the top 6" of soil.
• Trees crowded in small street spaces may crack sidewalks and paved areas.
• Avoid planting under overhead wires and above under-ground utilities.
• Do not plant trees near building foundations or walls.
• If you plan to plant near the street or in a parking lot, know the snow removal plans.
• Do not plant trees that produce nuts or large fruit in pedestrian areas.
• Determine the necessary root growth space for the species you select. Think of clustering trees in a park setting or a parking lot to provide larger soil volumes for safe root growth. Grouping spaces as contiguous pits to provide shared soil volumes is recommended, rather than digging several individual pits. Groupings create their own small environments and may survive better.
• Identify legal restrictions for planting for both public and private property.

Tree Selection

Which species?
What is tree's mature height? What is tree's projected longevity? How fast will this tree grow? What is tree's mature shape? Is it cold hardy for your area? What are its soil requirements? Does it require a shady or sunny site? Does it require wet or dry site?
Is it sensitive to salt?
Describe flowers and fruits
What is the autumn/spring color?
Is the species unusually susceptible to certain insects or disease, or to storm damage?

Note: In a community setting be sure to choose a variety of species. Do not plant large numbers of the same species.

Which particular tree?

Now carefully inspect the trees to choose the healthiest ones with the best form. Reject trees that have:

• Double stems or multiple bunches of stems. Look for a straight, single stem.
• Severe pruning cuts. See "Pruning Guidelines."
• Dead bark, cankers, or signs of disease or insects on trunk or branches.
• Paint on wounds or pruning cuts.
• Tight, vertical branches where bark is squeezed between branches or between trunk and branch.

Note: Branches of street trees should be high enough for pedestrians to walk beneath.
Content provided by the USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area

Purchasing

Species selection is critical to ensure that a tree will "fit" its planting site. A tree's future size, shape, and overall appearance must be known before purchase. Other considerations are foliage texture and density, flowers, fruits and fall coloration. Some kinds of trees are very particular about sunlight, moisture, and soils. Others are less so. Consult good references or talk to a nursery owner or other professional about selecting the right tree for the job.

Roots
Several methods are used to package tree roots, each influenced by tree species, size, or ease of transportation. All containers must be removed prior to planting.

Balled and burlapped trees are dug from a nursery bed with roots in a ball of earth, then wrapped in burlap. Even though trees may be carefully grown and lifted, many roots are lost; in fact, as much as 90% of the tree’s roots may be left behind in the field. Keep the earth ball moist to prevent drying.	Container-grown trees are raised directly in a pot or container. Although the entire root system is maintained, roots may become tightly encircled if left too long in the container. This may cause future problems for the tree.	Bare-rooted trees are also dug from a nursery bed, but soil is removed. They are easier to transport, but much more susceptible to drying. Roots may be wrapped in sphagnum moss or other packing material to hold moisture. Bare rooted trees are usually less costly, but must be handled and planted carefully.	Potted trees are dug from a nursery bed, then placed into a container. Containers may be hard or soft walled, but should be removed before planting. Soil in pots must be kept moist before planting.

Purchase Size and Characteristics
Tree sizes are measured by height and caliper. Height is used is used for deciduous trees up to 8 feet tall, and for evergreen trees. Caliper, or trunk diameter near the ground, is used for deciduous over 8 feet tall. Tree sizes increase by one-quarter or one-half inch caliper increments.
Important considerations for selecting tree sizes are location, purpose, availability, cost and difficulty of handling. Very large trees are usually best installed by a landscape contractor.

Note: Caliper is the stem thickness measured 6 inches above ground. Trees over 4-inch caliper are measured 12 inches above ground.

Purchased trees should have these desirable characteristics:

• Long, vigorous branches on current year's growth. Well developed buds.
• Pleasing proportion of height to spread. Well developed lateral branches.
• Generally straight trunk with absence of wounds.
• Firm, moist root ball or container soil.
• 1 and ¼ inch caliper tree with balled and burlapped roots.

For more information, look at the American Nursery & Landscape Association’s publication, created under the standards of the American National Standards Institute (ANSI):

Transporting and Storing Trees
Remember trees are alive and should be treated with respect. Protection from drying is critical; roots must be kept moist. Foliage, branches and trunks can also dry out. If trees will be transported by truck, be sure to keep them covered for protection from winds.
It is best to plant trees as soon as possible after they are received. If they must be stored, place them away from excessive exposure to sun and wind. Cover balled and burlapped or bare rooted tree roots with wood chips, sand, or loose earth.
Trees should be lifted by their container or root ball to avoid breaking fine roots and to protect trunks.

Cost
Tree cost depends on size, root condition, species, method of growth or culture, and origin. Relative prices of trees generally indicate quality, but not always. When estimating the total cost of a planting project, be sure to include the expense of labor, tools, materials and delivery along with tree costs for maintenance of trees after they are planted, including mulching and watering.
Content provided by The Missouri Department of Conservation.

How To Plant It Right

Tree Placement and Utility Safety
Planting Tools
Preparing The Site
How to Plant
After Planting Checklist

Tree Placement and Utility Safety

Trees should be planted away from utility lines, poles and underground utilities at indicated distances:
Large Trees (over 70 ft.) 45 ft. or more from lines
Medium Trees (30-70 ft.) 35 ft. from lines
Small Trees (under 30 ft.) 20 ft. from lines

Content provided by The Missouri Department of Conservation.

Remember, utility lines aren’t only above you, but are also buried underground.
Before you dig to plant any shrub or tree, protect your safety and avoid costly, troublesome utility interruptions. Call the toll-free hotline in your state for no-cost location of all underground utilities including electric, gas, phone, water, sewers, cable TV and fiber optics. Allow two working days for member utilities to mark your service locations. Then avoid planting over or near underground lines. It’s one call that can save your life.
In Kansas: 1-800-DIG-SAFE (1-800-344-7233)
In Missouri: 1-800-DIG-RITE (1-800-344-7483)

Planting Tools

• large spade or shovels
• large tarp to hold soil
• heavy duty wire clippers
• small pruning saw
• hammer or mallet
• measuring stick
• pruning shears
• heavy duty scissors or sharp utility knife
• gloves
• stakes and strapping

Content provided by the USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area

How to Plant

Preparing the Site

If possible, prepare the site before you bring in the tree. Keep the root ball well watered and keep the tree in a shaded place until you are ready to plant. It is imperative to expose the trunk flare on each balled and burlaped tree before the planting site is dug so that the depth of the planting site can be properly measured. The trunk flare is the point where roots begin to branch from the trunk. (The top of the root ball is not always the trunk flare.) Remove burlap from immediate trunk area of tree. Pull back excess soil around trunk of tree to locate trunk flare. Measure the height from the base of the trunk flare to the bottom of the root ball. Dig to the depth of the trunk flare.

• Trunk flare and top of root ball should be at grade.
• Dig the space at least 2 times the diameter of root ball.
• Break up compacted soil. Sides of planting space should not be packed. Leave bottom of space firm
• Do not amend soil unless planting in building rubble, poor, or severely disturbed soils.

How to Plant a Tree

• Lift tree into planting space by root ball, not the trunk.
• Balance tree upright in center of planting space.
• For trees in wire baskets, cut and remove wire.
• Cut away strings and burlap or plastic, exposing root ball. Do not remove soil from root ball.
• If tree is container grown, cut and remove container.
• Prune dead or crushed roots and straighten or cut circling roots. Make clean cuts.
• Begin refilling with soil, watering as you fill to firmly set tree. Gently tamp.
• Never plant too deep. Trunk flare and top of root ball should be at grade. (Trunk flare may be hidden within the root ball.) Fill soil up to the tree base just to where roots begin to branch from trunk.
• Prune only dead or injured branches. Do not paint wounds.
• Remove tree wrap, tape or string on trunk. Trunks should be wrapped only to protect them in transit to planting site.
• Stake and brace most trees at planting time. Support tree but allow it to move or sway.
• Use wide, belt-like strapping to attach to two sturdy stakes. Do not use rope or wire through a hose.
• Mulch lightly and evenly with 2" of composted material at least to the diameter of crown of tree. Leave 3" circle of bare soil around the trunk. Deep layers of mulch can be harmful.
• Do not plant flowers under tree.
• Do not fertilize at planting time.

Content provided by the The National Arbor Day Foundation and USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area .

For more information check out the Missouri Department of Conservation’s Standard Tree Planting Detail: http://mdc4.mdc.mo.gov/Documents/302.pdf.

After Planting Checklist

• Water is the critical factor for tree survival after planting. Water deeply regularly throughout the first growing season. Allow water to run slowly, soaking the soil, once or twice a week. Do not over water. Water at the perimeter or edge of planting site.
• Keep lawn mowers and string trimmers away from tree to avoid wounding trunk. Reduce herbicide use near tree and in surrounding lawn.
• Never fertilize stressed trees. Fertilizer is not tree food. It should be applied (if absolutely necessary) only after first year. When used, fertilizer should be applied at the perimeter edge of the planting site.
• Start an annual tree inspection program while tree is young to head off problems early.
• Replace mulch as needed. Keep grass and weeds out of mulched area. They compete for the same water and elements as tree.
• Remove stakes and strapping after one year unless site is extremely windy. Do not stake longer than two years.
• Prune dead or injured branches immediately. Prune while young to maintain size and shape beginning in the second growing season.
• Do not top trees to reduce height.
• Call an insured tree care professional for advice on large pruning jobs, hazard trees, and insect or disease problems. Nonprofessionals should never prune near utility wires.
• Do not plant flowers under a tree. Do not cultivate soil under the tree.
• Continue deep watering for five years after planting.

Content provided by the USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area

How To Prune It Right

• Never remove more than 1/4 of a tree's crown in a season.
• Where possible, try to encourage side branches that form angles that are 1/3 off vertical (10:00 or 2:00 positions). Branches at angles of 10:00 and 2:00 are often strongest. Side branches should have diameters less than 3/4 the diameter of the trunk.
• For most species, the tree should have a single trunk, also called a central leader.
• Ideally, main side branches should be at least 1/3 smaller than the diameter of the trunk. If removal of a main branch is necessary, cut it back to where it is attached to another large branch or the trunk. Do not truncate or leave a stub.
• For most deciduous (broadleaf) trees, don't prune up from the bottom any more than 1/3 of the tree's total height.

How to Mulch It Right

The Value of Mulch

A tree's best friend, mulch insulates soil, retains moisture, keeps out weeds, prevents soil compaction, reduces lawnmower damage, and adds an aesthetic touch to a yard or street. Remove any grass within the mulch area, and area from 3 to 10 feet in diameter, depending on tree size. Pour wood chips or bark pieces 2 to 4 inches within the circle, but not touching the trunk.

Content provided by The National Arbor Day Foundation

Remember: trees like donuts, not volcanoes! Click here  for a mulching guide.

How To Give It Long Term Care

How To Hire An Arborist

1. Make sure they are part of an established business in the community or nearby area with a listing in the phone book, usually under “Tree Service.” Look for “certified arborist” or other indication of professional certification (see 4. below).
2. Have them provide you with evidence they are actually working for the company, rather than moonlighting.
3. Ask for current certificates of insurance showing they are fully insured for property damage, personal liability and worker compensation.
4. Ideally, they should be members of a professional association of arborists such as the Kansas Arborist Association (KAA), the International Society of Arboriculture, the Tree Care Industry Association, or the American Society of Consulting Arborists (ASCA). Ask for proof of certification before any work is started.
5. Arborists who have received certification from their professional associations, such as ISA Certified Arborists, will have received training and access to current technical information on tree care, repair and removal. They will also carry membership cards to show their certification.
6. Get at least three estimates to ensure the price offered is competitive with that offered by others for the same services.
7. In case of tree removals, have a clear understanding about who removes the limbs and debris from the property and whether or not the price includes stump removal and clean up.
8. Check to see if the estimate has considered the possible value your tree will have as firewood or chips, either to yourself or if sold to others. (If your tree is large, contact Elmwood Reclaimed Timber for information about its Old Growth Urban Reclaimed Timber Program.)
9. Do not hire contractors who go door to door. A professional tree care company typically does not do business by knocking on doors.
10. ABOVE ALL - do not respond to pressure tactics! Be a good consumer. Do your research and hire good contractors.

How To Address
Storm Damage

Storm Recovery
Can My Tree Be Saved?
First Aid
Preventing Future Damage

• Safety First - Beware of utility lines and hazardous overhanging limbs.
• Be Patient - If a tree does not represent a hazard, take the time necessary to be sure it gets proper care and make a final decision about it in a few weeks or months.
• Hire a Qualified Arborist - If a tree is large, requires high climbing, is leaning against wires, buildings or other trees, or if wires or structures are endangered, let a professional do the job.
• Take Heart - Trees are amazingly resilient, and the trees of other communities have recovered over time.

Content provided by the The National Arbor Day Foundation

Can My Tree Be Saved?

First, Assess the Damage
Before writing off a damaged tree as a "goner," homeowners should evaluate their trees by asking the following questions:

• Other than the storm damage, is the tree healthy and vigorous? If the tree is basically healthy, is not creating a hazard and did not suffer major structural damage, it will generally recover if first aid measures are applied immediately after the storm.
• Are major limbs broken? The larger a broken limb is, the harder it will be for the tree to recover from the damage. If a majority of the main branches are gone, the tree might have little chance of surviving.
• Has the leader (the main upward-trending branch on most trees) been lost? In species where a leader is important to upward growth or desirable appearance, it might have to be a judgment call. The tree might live without its leader, but at best would be a stunted or deformed version of the original.
• Is at least 50 percent of the tree's crown (branches and leaves) still intact? This is a good rule of thumb on tree survivability. A tree with less than half of its branches remaining might not be able to produce enough foliage to nourish the tree through another season.
• How big are the wounds where branches have been broken or bark has been damaged? The larger the wound is in relation to the size of the limb, the less likely it is to heal, leaving the tree vulnerable to disease and pests. A two- to three-inch wound on a 12-inch diameter limb will seal over with new bark within a couple of years.
• Are there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure? The remaining limbs will grow more vigorously as the tree tries to replace its missing foliage. Look to see if branches are in place that can eventually fill out the tree's appearance.
• Is the tree a desirable species for its location? If the tree is in the wrong location (such as a potentially tall tree beneath a power line), or an undesirable species for the property (messy fruit, etc.), it might be best to remove it if it has serious damage.

It's a Keeper (20% OR LESS LOSS)
When there is only slight damage to your tree, you should remove damaged limbs and let the tree begin the process of repairing itself. DO NOT paint over wounds or wrap wire or strapping of any sort around a damaged branch to let it “heal.” If a branch is damaged, the tree will prepare to cut off resources to it anyway, and it will die. Trees cannot “heal” tissue like people do. You need to remove these branches using good pruning cutting techniques.

Wait and See (20% - 40% LOSS)
When a good portion of limbs are broken, but it is still hard to tell what to do with the tree, you should remove damaged limbs and evaluate the tree over time. Sometimes these trees will recover, and sometimes they won’t. Its environment, what species it is, and where the damage occurred on the tree can all play a big role in determining the tree’s survival.
THE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THIS is when the tree in this situation is near a house, an above-ground utility line or anything its limbs might hit. If your tree is remotely close to any above-ground utility, you should contact that utility and have them evaluate the situation. DO NOT endanger yourself by trimming close to an electrical line.
If a tree is close to your house, please hire a professional tree company to do the trimming. A tree in this circumstance is going to need close monitoring and care over many years to make it viable again. Proper watering, fertilization and pruning over time will be crucial to this tree’s recovery.

Say Goodbye (50%+ LOSS)
When there are fewer branches on your tree than off, you need to consider removing the tree. It is not possible to have a tree recover completely from this type of loss. Removal is the best option. If it is not removed, it is very likely the tree will die eventually from disease or insect infestations. If it does live, it will never be tree-shaped again and will continue to have structural problems which could eventually pose a hazard to anything around it. Hiring a professional tree care company is the best option for this situation.

Content provided by the The National Arbor Day Foundation.

First Aid

1. Don't try to do it all yourself. If large limbs are broken or hanging, or if high climbing or overhead chainsaw work is needed, it's a job for a professional arborist. They have the necessary equipment and knowledge needed, and they are generally listed in the telephone directory under "Tree Service."
2. Take safety precautions. Look up and look down. Be on the alert for downed power lines and dangerous hanging branches that look like they're ready to fall. Stay away from any downed utility lines, low-voltage telephone or cable lines. Even fence wires can become electrically charged when there are fallen or broken electrical lines nearby. Don't get under broken limbs that are hanging or caught in other branches overhead. And, unless you really know how to use one, leave chainsaw work to the professionals.
3. Remove any broken branches still attached to the tree. Removing the jagged remains of smaller sized broken limbs is one common repair property owners can make after a storm. If done properly, it will minimize the risk of decay agents entering the wound. Smaller branches should be pruned at the point where they join larger ones. Large branches that are broken should be cut back to the trunk or a main limb by an arborist.
4. Repair torn bark. To improve the tree's appearance and eliminate hiding places for insects, carefully use a chisel or sharp knife to smooth the ragged edges of wounds where bark has been torn away. Try not to expose any more of the cambium (greenish inner bark) than is necessary, as these fragile layers contain the tree's food and water lifelines between roots and leaves.
5. Resist the urge to overprune. Don't worry if the tree's appearance isn't perfect. With branches gone, your trees might look unbalanced or naked. You'll be surprised at how fast they will heal, grow new foliage and return to their natural beauty.
6. Don't top your trees! Untrained individuals might urge you to cut back all of the branches on the mistaken assumption that reducing the length of branches will help avoid breakage in future storms. While storm damage might not always allow for ideal pruning cuts, professional arborists say that "topping," cutting main branches back to stubs, is one of the worst things you can do for your trees. Stubs tend to grow back a lot of weakly attached branches that are even more likely to break when a storm strikes. Also, the tree will need all its resources to recover from the stress of storm damage. Topping the tree will reduce the amount of foliage on which the tree depends for the food and nourishment needed for regrowth. A topped tree that has already sustained major storm damage is more likely to die than repair itself. At best, its recovery will be retarded, and it will almost never regain its original shape or beauty.

Content provided by the The National Arbor Day Foundation

Preventing Future Damage

Here are some preventive measures home and property owners can take to help their trees be stronger and more resistant to storm damage:

1. Encourage good branch angles. For most deciduous (broadleaf) trees, narrow angles between branches signal a point of future weakness, whether in the trunk or in the crown of the tree. This happens because as two branches grow closely together, neither has sufficient space to add the wood needed for strength. Instead, they grow against each other, creating a weak joint. The effect is similar to hammering in a wedge between them. To prevent this, remove one of the two branches when the tree is young. For best branch strength, the ideal branching angle in many broadleaf tree species approximates 10:00 or 2:00. Branches at those angles should be encouraged by removing competing but less desirable neighbors.
2. Encourage strong branch/trunk size relationships. The relative size of lateral (side) branches is also important in determining branch strength. Ideally, lateral branches should be no more than 1/2 to 3/4 the diameter of the trunk. Branches larger than that are often heavier than the trunk can support, and they are candidates to break when wind, ice or snow come along. Trees grow by adding new layers of wood on the trunk and branches each year. As the trunk grows, it will strengthen the joints with branches by adding wood around it, like a dowel in a chair leg.
3. Maintain a stable center of gravity. Wind, winter snow loads or previous loss of a major limb can create situations where the tree's center of gravity is not positioned over the trunk. Then when a severe storm hits, a slight bit of extra weight or wind pressure can break limbs, snap the trunk off, or even topple the tree, roots and all. You can help reposition a tree's center of gravity by selectively removing branches on the leaning side and encouraging branches on the opposite side.
4. Remove rubbing branches, suckers, watersprouts and temporary branches. Branches that rub against each other produce wounds and decay. One of the offending branches should be removed. Watersprouts and suckers can occur at the base of the tree or inside the crown. They are rapidly growing, weakly attached and upright branches that do not follow the tree's normal growth pattern. On trees that have been severely damaged, these kinds of branches might be temporarily needed to provide foliage. In healthy trees; however, they most often use more energy than they return to the tree, and it is best to remove them as soon as possible. Temporary branches grow low on the tree when it is young and protect young bark from injury by the sun. After a tree is three to four years old, these temporary branches should be gradually removed. Because leaves are vital in providing the tree with nourishment, never remove more than one-third of a tree's leafy crown when pruning.
5. Don't cut branches back to stubs. Often people have the mistaken idea that long natural limbs on a tree will break more easily in a storm and should be cut back to make them stronger. Just the opposite is the case. When a branch is cut back to a stub, new branches will grow from the edges of the stub. Because they cannot form a strong union with the stubbed branch, these new branches are even more likely to be broken in a future storm. If a branch needs to be removed, cut it back to a main branch or to the tree’s trunk. Never leave a stub.

Content provided by the The National Arbor Day Foundation.